Showing posts with label Swimming. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Swimming. Show all posts

Thursday, October 14, 2010

Above ground swimming pool

A swimming pool in your garden is much easier to install than you might expect. A new above ground pool is both reasonably priced and easy to repair. Unlike inflatable pools that often are not very hygienic, but also as a loss, which are much stronger and have all the advantages of a fixed pool without the need for a building permit. They cost a fraction of the price.

Obviously your new above ground pool will bewith instructions to follow, but here is a brief summary of the steps to follow.

Where
Dry assemble the base of the timber in-situ, so that any problems of access and whether the construction of new roads or services necessary for switching.

Excavation
Even if the pool is completely off the ground, you will still need to remove the soil for the base. Draw a rectangular space of at least 60 cmlarger than the pool and remove all the topsoil (15 cm).

Concrete base
You'll find it easier if you do it in two stages. First was a thin (5cm) layer of blinding concrete over the entire excavated surface - this gives you a clean, flat floor to work on. Subsequently, the position of the steel poles that the "ribs" of the sacrifice of pool. "Place 5 inches above the strong blinding concrete reinforcing mesh and, if the soil is poor, another layer5 cm mesh over the upper surface of the concrete. Pour in at least 15 centimeters and perhaps the most 30cm of structural quality concrete mix stir all the air supplied.

Timber superstructure
When the concrete has hardened (about 2 days), start the installation of the wooden frame, making sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions with respect to the joint.

Piping - Phase 1
Install the skimmer unit and cut holes inwall of the timber frame to accommodate the unloading of the pump intake and any lighting. Use a hole saw good and be careful not too big a hole.

Sub-Liner
Carefully brush the floor and vacuum the pool, since any debris left behind is a potential flaw in your pocket. If the floor is clean, spray with glue and cut and mount the sub-liner. This provides a cushioning effect on the floor and walls and also protects the lining Mainfrom damage.

Piping - Phase 2
Install gaskets and frames for the pump inlet, exhaust and lights cut through the sub-liner, which is necessary to expose these holes. Be careful not to over cut.

Main Liner
Exposed to the sun for an hour before coating in order to warm up and smooth them. Starting from one corner of the wooden structure, the cover shot of the pool wall and smooth as you gently stretchso. View the most recent 10 cm, insert a tube from a powerful vacuum cleaner and seal. Draw as much air as possible between the coating and the sub-liner. Anyone who uses the pool goes from here to do with socks or bare feet.

Piping - Phase 3
Fill the pool to a depth of about 15 cm to the liner in its final position to stretch. Use a vacuum cleaner for the last time, remove and seal the top end of the line. Log inpool and install the finals of the pump intake, exhaust and make sure that the electric lights of the last free the storm.

Electrical work
Need an electrician for a switch for you to design and supply. It 's a good idea if you put in a timer and an additional link (you may need to invest in an automatic cleaner). They may also tie in the light - you might want to have arranged for an additional pushthis.

Piping - Phase 4
Carefully assemble the filter pump and fill it with clean, fine sand. Install all in-flow and flow lines to the pump and carefully to ensure that joints are watertight. Fill the pool until the middle of the skimmer unit. First works pump backwash pump and set the timer.

Chemical dosing
Using a pH and chlorine test kit (available at any retailer of swimming pool accessories), or acidalkali to bring your pool to a pH of 7.4 and typically a chlorine level of about 3 ppm. Add algaecide once a week and test, if necessary, and fill, water, acid or alkali and chlorine at the same time. If you use solar rings, save the evaporation of water and chemicals as well as extend your swimming season.

Access
Fit and stairs if necessary.

Maintenance
Drain the water at a low level andCover the winter, using the pump from time to time to avoid standing water. Treating with teak oil every year to keep it free of rot and handsome.

Now you are ready for your above ground pool to enjoy.

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Wednesday, September 15, 2010

How to Vacuum Your Swimming Pool

Here's the question of the swimming pool season: How and how often do I need to vacuum my pool?

The answer: Vacuuming should be done as often as you think. Normally, once a week is sufficient. Generally speaking, the more a pool is used the less vacuuming it needs. It's pretty simple. Many pool owners enjoy vacuuming on a nice sunny summer morning . Many of our customers use a good automatic pool cleaner to do this work for them. Even so, a good manual vacuum is good to do once each month.

The "HOW TO" is essentially the same for both In ground and Above ground Pools:

1. If your pool is equipped, be sure that the valve on the suction line coming into the pump is selected for the port (either skimmer or lower suction fitting) you will be using to vacuum.

2. Attach the vacuum hose to the vacuum head (the piece with the brushes or wheels on it). The better quality vac hoses come with a swivel end to prevent tangling of the hose. Be sure that this is the end that is attached to the vac head; if not the system will draw air & not work properly.

3. Make sure the hose is secure (even use a hose clamp if needed) and that the vacuum head is firmly attached to the pole.

4. Place the vacuum head, hose & pole into the deep end of the pool (make sure one end of the pole is sticking out of the water!)

5. Take the UN-attached end of the vac hose & hold it in front of one of the water return fittings. This will fill the hose with water and prevent binding of the pump with air from the hose. You know you've got enough water in the hose when the vacuum head bubbles up to the surface of the pool water.

6. Put your hand over the end of the hose to keep the water IN.

7. Place the skimmer basket adapter (looks like a disc with a nozzle on top) on top of the skimmer basket. Always use a basket to prevent the possible suction of a large object from getting stuck in the skimmer or in the underground line.

8. If vacuuming through a lower suction or dedicated vacuum line without a basket (instead of through the skimmer), use a leaf trap to prevent clogging of the plumbing lines or hoses.

9. After you have placed the hose on the adapter fitting you will probably notice a sudden drop in filter activity. This is normal. The filter system is just readjusting itself to the change in suction. Let it operate for about 30 to 90 seconds. It should automatically bleed any air out of its system and return to normal operation. You'll hear the sound becoming "normal" again.

10. Vacuum away! Remember to brush & vacuum the sides of the pool as well as the bottom. Dirt, biofilm build-up, and algae will settle there as well. And don't forget behind any ladders.

For other swimming pool cleaning tips, please see our other ezine articles on the 5 Keys to Pool Care.

Troubleshooting:

No suction - Either the hose has come off of the basket, the filter has lost its prime (not sucking water) or the hose a leak (make sure you've got the proper end of the hose on the vac head). If you have more than one suction line, be sure you're drawing from the proper one.

Dirty water returning to the pool - If you have a sand filter, DO NOT BACKWASH THE FILTER BEFORE VACUUMING. Backwashing stirs up the sand & prevents good trapping of dirt for several HOURS. In cartridge or DE filters, this rarely happens.

Suction is lost after a couple of minutes -  How dirty is the pool? If it's REALLY dirty, you may be better off vacuuming to direct waste (sand filter) or otherwise vacuuming directly out of the pool by-passing the filter.

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Wednesday, September 8, 2010

All About Swimming Pool Sand Filters

Swimming pool sand filters are one of the ways to keep your pool crystal clear and clean. This type of product uses sand as a means to collect and remove debris from a body of water. Sand is contained in a vessel or tank, water is pumped into the top of the tank, and into the internal distributor. This allows the pool water to "rain down" and flow through the media. As the water flows through, dirt and debris are collected and removed from the water. The debris is held behind and the clean water is returned to the swimming pool.

What are some of the items found and associated with a type of filter?
1. Multi Port Valve OR Control Valve

What are some of the functions found on a standard Multi Port Valve?
o FILTER - For normal filtering and vacuuming.
o BACKWASH - For cleaning the filter bed of accumulated debris.
o RINSE - Use after completing the backwash cycle to ensure all dirty water is rinsed from the tank to waste.
o WASTE - By-passes the tank for draining or lowering the pool water level and for vacuuming heavy debris directly to the waste line.
o RECIRCULATE - Water is recirculated through the valve by-passing the filter.
o CLOSED - Shuts off the flow from the pump to the filter

Internal Parts
2. Tank Or Vessel - Main body of the unit.
3. Top Diffuser - Allows the pool water to enter the tank and distribute the water inside the tank.
4. Media - Captures the dirt and debris from the pool water as it flows through.
5. Laterals - Located under the media, allows the pool water to exit the tank and flow back to the pool.

How are sand filters cleaned?
Most filters come equipped with a valve, commonly referred to as a Multi Port Valve. The Multi Port Valve has various settings allowing water flow to be directed in many direct directions. One of the directions is BACKWASH. In the backwash mode the water inside the tank is made to flow in reverse. Instead of the water flowing from the top of the tank down, the water from the pool is fed into the bottom of the tank through the laterals. This causes the sand to be churned, the dirt and debris which has been contained is flushed out of the tank through a separate waste line. Many Multi Port Valves have a sight glass for viewing this process. As the water is backwashed, use the sight glass to inspect the water, as the water becomes visually clean the backwash should be considered finished, the pump stopped and the valve now put in the RINSE mode. Reenergizing the pump in the rinse mode allows the water to flow in the standard operating direction and allows settling to occur in the tank. Dirty Water is flushed out to waste during this process.

NOTE: This process will lower the water level of the pool. Once the pool level is lowered additional chemicals may be needed. Retesting of the water will be required to determine the type and amount of chemicals which will be required.

What if backwashing is not enough?
If backwashing does not "clean" the media, the time has come to disassemble the unit, empty the tank and replace the sand. The media will deteriorate over a period of time, become hard and crusty, and forming channels. When this takes place, backwashing will not be enough to allow proper filtration. It is important to remember the following when performing this task.

1. If the filter has not been disassembled for some time, when removing the multi port valve, top dome or top half of the tank, remember to have new o-rings available which will be in the area of disassembly. Old o-rings stretch and crack over a period of time and need to be replaced periodically.

2. Carefully remove the old media from the tank. This can be accomplished by scooping or by using a sand vac tool (a tool which by using a garden hose and exhaust hose, vacuums the sand out of the filter tank.

3. Inspect the bottom laterals, checking for damage or cracks. Replace any laterals which are defective to prevent by-passing of sand back to the swimming pool.

4. Prepare to refill the tank with the new media (Check the instruction manual for the filter and use the size and type which is recommended).

5. Fill the tank half full with clean water

6. Slowly and carefully add the new media to the tank. Use caution not to damage the laterals during this process. Add the correct amount for the size filter being serviced.

7. Reassemble all parts removed, top half, dome, and valve, replace o-rings as required.

8. Position the multi port valve in the RINSE position to settle the new media, check for leaks, once settled, turn off pump and return the valve setting to the filter position. Restart Pool Pump and begin normal operation.

How often does the sand need to be changed?
Filter size, pool usage, bather load and weather conditions will dictate the time frame for changing and recharging the filter.

These types of filters have been utilized for many years as an effective means of swimming pool water filtration. Maintaining the filter and valve will provide many years of service, keeping your water crystal clear, enjoyable and ready for fun.

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